Why do BJJ gis shrink? How to order academy gis that still fit after washing

You order a batch of gis with your academy's logo, students love them, and three weeks later the complaints start: sleeves sitting above the wrist, pants halfway up the shin, jackets that won't close properly over a rash guard. Some students quietly go back to their old gi. You're left with a box of unsold sizes and a supplier who says it's "normal".

Gi shrinkage is one of the most common problems academy owners run into with custom gis. Some shrinkage is normal for cotton. A gi that's unwearable after a month is not. The good news is that most of it can be prevented with the right fabric, the right sizing process and clear washing advice for your students.

Why do BJJ gis shrink?

Most BJJ gis are made from cotton or a cotton-rich blend. Cotton fibres are stretched and held under tension while the fabric is woven and finished. When the gi is washed in warm water and dried with heat, those fibres relax and pull back, and the whole garment gets shorter and tighter.

Three things decide how much a gi moves:

• Whether the fabric was pre-shrunk before cutting. Pre-shrunk fabric has already been through a controlled wash and dry, so most of the movement has happened before the gi is sewn.
• The weave. Heavier and more open weaves can behave differently from tight, light weaves, so two gis in the same size can shrink by different amounts.
• How the student washes it. Hot washes and tumble dryers cause far more shrinkage than a cold wash and hanging it up to dry.

How much shrinkage is normal?

There's no single number, and you should be wary of anyone who gives you one without testing your fabric. A gi made from fabric that hasn't been pre-shrunk can lose a noticeable amount of sleeve and pant length after the first hot wash. A pre-shrunk gi usually tightens only slightly. Pants tend to shrink more in length than the jacket, which is why short pants are the most common complaint.

The useful question for an academy owner isn't "how much will it shrink?" but "what size will this gi be after my students wash it?" That's something you can measure before you place a full order.

How do I order academy gis that still fit after washing?

Ask whether the fabric is pre-shrunk

Ask your supplier directly whether the gi fabric is pre-shrunk, and ask what the size chart is based on: measurements before washing or after. If the answer is vague, assume you'll need to test it yourself.

Wash-test a fit sample before the full run

Order a sample in one or two of your most common sizes. Measure the sleeve length, jacket length and pant length, then wash and dry it the way a typical student would (most will use a normal machine wash, and some will use a dryer even if you tell them not to). Measure again. Now you know exactly how your gi behaves and can decide whether students should order their usual size or size up.

Use the supplier's size chart, not other brands' sizes

An A2 from one brand isn't the same as an A2 from another. BJJ gis are sized A0 to A6 for adults with separate youth sizes, but cut and length vary between manufacturers. Have students check their height and weight against your supplier's chart, and keep your washed sample at the front desk so students can try it on.

Plan sizes for the body types in your academy

Many academies have tall, slim students who need longer sleeves and pants, and stocky students who need more room in the jacket. If that's your mat, ask whether the manufacturer can make custom size runs (for example a longer A2) instead of forcing everyone into a standard chart.

What else should I check besides shrinkage?

• Weave and weight: pearl weave is the most popular academy choice because it's strong but light enough for long sessions.
• Stitching at stress points: look for reinforcement at the armpits, collar, skirt splits and pant knees, where gis tear first.
• Collar: a firm collar lasts longer, but shouldn't be so stiff that it's uncomfortable.
• Branding placement: embroidery and patches can pucker if the fabric shrinks after they're applied, so check the sample's logos after washing too.
• Competition rules: if your students compete, check the federation's rules on gi colour and patch placement before you finalise the design.

What should I tell students about washing their gi?

A one-line care card in the bag or a sign by the front desk saves a lot of complaints. Keep it simple:

1. 01Wash cold, inside out, straight after training.
2. 02Hang to dry, out of direct sunlight.
3. 03Don't tumble dry and don't use bleach.
4. 04If the gi is a little long, a warm wash can bring it in. Do this one wash at a time, never all at once.

Is it worth ordering gis direct from a manufacturer?

Buying direct means you can talk to the people who choose the fabric and cut the patterns. You can ask about pre-shrinking, request a longer cut and get a washed sample checked before production, instead of passing questions through a reseller. If you're new to custom academy gear, our guide to custom BJJ gis and rash guards for academies covers weave, fit and branding in more detail.

UZAS Sports has made martial arts uniforms in our own factory in Sialkot, Pakistan since 2005, with showrooms in Sialkot and Melbourne. Our standard BJJ gi is a 450 gsm pearl weave with reinforced stress points. There's no minimum order, samples are free and customised with your logo, design help is free, and orders of 25 pieces or more ship free. We also make the belts, rash guards and custom patches to go with your gi.

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